BvsM Help

[DiscipleforChrist]

Well, I have a bit of a problem. My BvsM has gone responsive, but I have gone through the routine to get it going again.

It came with a bearing that I cleaned. It went responsive quickly despite having a dry bearing (really quickly, as in two or three minutes or so). I just decided to swap bearing after three or four unsuccessful cleans.

This went okay for about a day, then it went responsive into the same cycle. Then again, the swap was to a different finicky bearing. Afterwards, I decided to put my Peak bearing in the yo-yo. This is a new one and still has the shields (and was problematic in no way in the Peak). But, the BvsM still snapped back upon a harder tug.

Is something wrong? I've check the silicon (because there is always the possibility that it's no worn in), but that did not seem to be the problem since I've had it just long enough to begin seeing a bit of a recess in the silicon (came flush, by the way).

I am not sure what to do any more. And, sooner or later, I'll run out of bearings.
May I have some help?

[CaliBuddha]

If a bearing is completely dry it will lock up. If you clean a bearing you MUST put a tiny drop of thin lube on it.

[DiscipleforChrist]

Okay, will do! Thanks. But, why does the peak bearing play fine for so long? And the SPEC? I've played them dry for a while and they didn't lock or get angry at me in any other way. I guess I'm just wondering why they locked up so quickly in the BvsM.

Thanks for your reply!

[vegabomb]

There may be something in the bearing seat that is stopping the bearing from spinning freely. I would inspect that area.

[DiscipleforChrist]

Sure thing, thank you both! Do the Frank Slide's have a blast in the bearing seat? It looks like it to me. It might just need some wearing in in that area.

[Elephark]

If a bearing is completely dry it will lock up. If you clean a bearing you MUST put a tiny drop of thin lube on it.

Myth, but I don't feel like explaining it all over again.

[Max]

There may be something in the bearing seat that is stopping the bearing from spinning freely. I would inspect that area.

[A Lonely Yo-Yo]

ok


what about the response system?

are you using a pad or some sort of sillicone?

[ranen61]

trust me its the bearing. after cleaning dont lube it. atleast in the beginning. flick spin the bearing on a pencil and make sure it spins for at least 7 seconds any less could be a shot or very dirty bearing

[CaliBuddha]

If a bearing is completely dry it will lock up. If you clean a bearing you MUST put a tiny drop of thin lube on it.

Myth, but I don't feel like explaining it all over again.

Guess Im living in the past.

[Elephark]

I'm not entirely sure why that myth continues to be so prevalent. I suppose it could have started when a few guys didn't clean everything out of their bearings (or used dirty solvents, maybe) and panicked when their bearings didn't spin quite right until they put oil in to let the tiny bits of grit or whatever slide out of the way. Since they wanted to be helpful, they then spread the word: dry bearings lock up, so lube your bearings if you want to keep using them. Many other yoyoers heard this, took it as the gospel truth, and proceeded to spread it around...and so it continued for years and years afterward.

Contrary to the myth, locking and poor bearing performance is really due to the bearing not being clean enough. Under normal circumstances, when you clean your bearings, as long as they're clean clean when you're done, there shouldn't be any problems whatsoever with locking up. If even a single bit of grit (or silicone, yikes!) gets in there wrong, it can make a noticeable difference in the bearing's performance or even lock it. This can happen during cleaning or during normal use; the treatment is the same: clean it out, and do it right this time.



Also relevant to really getting bearings clean, I think, is the paper method I've been using on my bearings for years. I described it here before:

[deshield the bearing, then] Put it on a paintbrush handle or something that'll hold it by the center. Inspect it for hairs or obvious grit and remove anything you can see carefully with an xacto knife or something of the sort. Cut out some small wedges of paper (with an angle of 20-30°) and fold them in half lengthwise to double the thickness. Firmly but very carefully insert one into the bearing between two of the balls, next to the outer race. Rotate the bearing several turns, then remove the paper. There's probably some black gunk on the paper. Do it again with a clean piece. Also insert pieces next to the inner race to scrub that as well. Repeat this until you stop getting gunk on the paper. At this point your bearing should be bone dry and very clean. If you want, you can dip a wedge in oil and touch one of the races a few times to lube it up.

I also do this right after I clean my bearings with mineral spirits, before they dry. The paper directly absorbs the liquid and helps prevent residue from building up. As long as I've been doing this, I've never locked up a bearing. In fact, I've rescued several 'dead' bearings with this method as well.

[Jazzmonkay]

I only use lube to wuiet my bearings, My cleaned bearings have never locked up, i just like the quiet zzzzzz, instead of the loud obnoxious kwakkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkk, im bad at onomatopoeia sorry...

[Elephark]

i just like the quiet zzzzzz, instead of the loud obnoxious kwakkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkk

So what you're saying is that you prefer your bearings to sound like this and not like this?

[AquaJoe]

LOL on the wav.

I got a new BvM last week and the silicone was filled to much making it tug responsive, even with a cleaned bearing. So I just resiliconed it so it was recessed. Now its perfect.

I would definitely try to clean the bearing, but if you keep putting different bearings in there and are getting the same results, try and resilicone it.